Now that , the 20mm f/1.7 pancake from Panasonic (purchase from Amazon or ), I’ve been carrying it a lot more often.
E-P2 w/ 20mm f/1.7
San Francisco, California, USA
Nikon D3, 50mm f/1.4G
1/50 sec @ ƒ/2.2, iso 2500, 50mm
A 20mm f/1.7 lens and a Hirano case make the E-P2 an effective kit. If you want to pocket it, just unscrew the case and pop out the EVF.
One curious behavior I noticed while shooting is that the aperture is electronically controlled to make the CCD’s life easier in the camera live view—since this is an EVIL camera, it always has live view. When it’s quiet, you can hear the aperture click as you move it around to different lighting conditions. Furthermore, it never seems to set the aperture wider than about ƒ/2.8 unless you are autofocusing. This means when night shooting in the dark with this lens, , but . Not only that, but .
I decided to take a video of the behavior with Marie’s D5000. Since I accidentally hit the shutter button while focusing, here is a still:
20/1.7 aperture
San Francisco, California, USA
Nikon D5000, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 DX VR
1/30 sec @ ƒ/7.1, iso 560, 55mm (78mm)
To get this photo, I jury rigged my D200 RRS L-bracket onto the D5000 so I could tripod mount it.
and here is the movie:
I’m just waving my hand in front of the lens a few times. And then I turn the camera off.
The overexposure was the camera’s decision. I didn’t have time to figure out how to keep the Auto ISO from overcompensating my setting.
Do any of you notice this behavior on the Panasonic GF-1?