Take your best “Take”

The folks at Popular Photography recently published an introductory book, Take Your Best Shot. Since I like introductory works, and I wanted to test what a photography books look like in digital form, I purchased it on my iPad through Apple’s iBooks.

By tip 5, I was confronted with a familiar scene:

Excerpt from "Take Your Best Shot"

I lived in SOMA for a couple years. In fact, I’ve photographed this same scene before (on an SD card that got corrupted), so I made a mental note that next time I was there with a camera, to have another (and my own) take on this “take”. Because I was visiting Yerba Buena Center for the Arts to see my cousin and her son, I had a camera with me, though not the right lens or equipment. That never stopped me.

SFMOMA from the terrace
SFMOMA from the terrace Yerba Buena Gardens South of Market, San Francisco, California Nikon D3, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G 9 exposures @ ƒ9, ISO200, 24mm

Handheld, and in a rush to catch up to my nephew, I set my aperture to something non-diffractive and eyeballed the hyperfocal distance with my autofocus and held down the shutter for a bracketed exposure.

Even though I’d have much preferred a wider-angle lens, and the most-level bracket had to be chucked due to ghosting, you’ll notice from my take on the “take” shows I much prefer portrait-oriented landscapes. I find foreground interest contains details often lost in landscape-mode. It also forces the eye to follow much more rigidly down a path toward the background creating a more dramatic image (which I encouraged with post-processing).

(An added benefit: landscape is the way your eyes sees the world, flipping your camera to portrait-orientation forces you (and the viewer) to see the world differently.)

Next time you are out-and-about with a camera and see a familiar scene. Try to copy what someone else did, then have your own take on their take. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

(BTW, I have an iPad subscription to Popular Photography Magazine through Zinio. Always have a subscription to one magazine on photography, just to inspire you.)

Just keep shooting

One brunch, I noticed that a trio of my friends all had single-letter twitter names. I asked them to activate their wonder-tweet powers. They obliged:

@a @c @k
@a @c @k Zazie’s, Cole Valley, San Francisco, California Olympus E-P1, M.ZUIKO Digital 17mm 1:2.8 Pancake 2 exposures, 1/60sec @ ƒ2.8, ISO400, 17mm (35mm)

After discussing the kissy ass face video, I asked my friends to pose one of the things that were “too dirty for College Humor.”

Do the kissy-anus-face
Do the kissy-anus-face Eddie Rickenbacker’s, SoMa, San Francisco, California Leica M8, Cosina-Voigtländer NOKTON 35mm F1.2 Aspherical 3 exposures @ 1/30sec, iso 320, 35mm (47mm)

One thing I like to do is keep shooting even after people are done posing, the smiles are more honest.

My cousin Juno

It’s been four years since I last wrote about my cousin Juno. I haven’t changed much but a baby grows up a lot in that time.

While technically he’s my nephew, he calls me “사촌”—사촌 (sa-chon) means cousin in Korean, so I refer to him as my cousin Juno. And apparently I’m a big hit with him—Juno constantly pesters his parents before family get togethers, “Is Sa-chon Terry going to be there?”

The reason why is I have a secret weapon…

iPhone attention
iPhone attention Vicolleto, North Beach, San Francisco, California Leica M8, Voigtländer Nokton 35mm F1.2 1/60sec, ISO160, 35mm (47mm)

…an iPhone loaded with tons of free and $1 games.

Unfortunately because I never actually play the games, I hadn’t unlocked enough levels in Krazy Kart. Marie had to help out:

Here is how you do that
Here is how you do that Vicolleto, North Beach, San Francisco, California Leica M8, Voigtländer Nokton 35mm F1.2 1/60sec, ISO160, 35mm (47mm)

What an amazing device, and an amazing cousin. Oh, to be a kid right now! Wait a minute…

Photobooth - Me, Juno, Marie

We still are!

Focus on the eyes

The eyes are the most expressive part of a person.

One thing people forget about smaller-sensor cameras is that it is easier to do close-up photography. Even if the subject is a person, it’s okay to crop everything out, just remember to focus on the eyes. The closer the subject the smaller the depth-of-field gets so even with a small sensor, you have to get the focus just right.

Eyes
Eyes The Richmond, San Francisco, California Olympus E-PL3, Lumix G 20/F1.7 1/60sec @ ƒ1.8, ISO500, 20mm (40mm)

What attracted me to photographing Marie was the way the light from the bay windows caught her eyes. Unfortunately, my camera blocked a lot of that.

This camera has face and eye detection. I can even select which eye to prefer (I always select closest eye of the closest subject), but it is not always accurate. This photo suffers a little because the camera mistakenly focused on the distal eye—probably because I am near the close-focusing limit of this lens (the sensor isn’t small enough and the lens is a pancake).

It is interesting my appreciation of this image is interrupted because as the photographer, I see my mistakes: the off-focus and camera gobo, but my friends don’t.

Other tips

Even though the image is highly cropped it’s okay. A closely cropped photo rarely suffers and you can crop a person anywhere as long as it isn’t near a joint. As with “focus on the eyes”, these sort of photographing decisions are derived from our evolution.

Just remember, you will have to retouch the portrait a bit. Soften the skin (a little, not too much) and add definition and saturation to the eyes and lips. You should probably remove some of the color from the whites of the eyes, but I didn’t need to in this photo. Note that retouching tools have gotten very good as computers have gotten very powerful. I didn’t even need to leave Aperture (or use the RAW image) to retouch.

You have a camera

“I want to tell you the most important tip I learned about photography.”

“What is it?”

“You have a camera.”

Frame that shot!
Frame that shot! Zazie’s, Cole Valley, San Francisco, California Olympus E-P1, M.ZUIKO Digital 17mm 1:2.8 Pancake 1/60sec @ ƒ2.8, ISO1000, 17mm (35mm) Coley teases my habit of photographing my friends.

Recently some colleagues had a contest: “Guess how many cameras Terry has on him right now?”

Even though I have one, too often, I forget I carry a camera.

Smiling Sean Coates
Smiling Sean Coates The Invisible Dog, Brooklyn, New York City, New York Olympus E-PL3, Lumix G 20/F1.7 1/60sec @ ƒ1.8, ISO500, 20mm (40mm) Sean is embarassed to have my camera in his face… or happy that he guessed how many cameras I was carrying.

You have a camera, shoot it! You never know what will happen.

Gordy’s Camera Straps

Somewhere along the way, I ran into Gordy’s Camera Straps.

Gordon Coale is a guy out in Washington state who hand makes leather camera straps. Last year it occurred to me that one of his straps would perfectly match my Hirano case (which you may have seen before). Hand straps are simply a good idea for nearly any camera, because they’re the most minimal safety leash for photography: you don’t really need a one normally; but if something bad happens, you’ll be glad you have one around your wrist. Plus, when you do it right, they look gorgeous:

The food camera and Gordy’s strap
The food camera and Gordy’s strap Barracuda Sushi, Castro, San Francisco, California Nikon D3, 24mm f/1.4G, SB-900 1/50 sec @ ƒ2, iso 800, 24mm

I bought this Gordy’s strap almost exactly one year ago.

Continue reading about camera straps and cases after the jump→

That camera? Do not want.

Heard on the radio:

Want a camera that is easy to use and takes good photos?

My first thought: No. Because it’s not the camera that makes the photo good, you do.

Good photos record a worthwhile experience; and those experiences are earned, not taken.

Look this way.
Look this way. Morgan’s Apartment, South of Market, San Francisco, California Leica M8, Zeiss Biogon 2.8/25ZM 1/16sec, ISO320, 25mm (33mm) There are few small cameras harder to use (and slower) than a Leica.
“i like to poke things with my finger. tummies, ears and noses mostly. oh, and jello. jello is fun to poke. red jello. no, green.” —Cyan. Always causing trouble.

dSLR video recommendations

Recently, some friends asked me what dSLR to purchase if they want to make movies with it. They aren’t experts at doing SLR photography.

Currently, if you are a beginner photographer and want a dSLR with video capability, the one I suggest is the Nikon D3100, ($700, Amazon, DPReview) which I have already written about earlier.

Nikon calls movie taking “D-movie.” It is currently the cheapest dSLR that can do video mode. It’s only one of three dSLRs that can do autofocus while taking video mode. This strikes me as the best balance between learning and using an entry level dSLR and being to take film-like movies. I’ll recommend some others below, but first I’d like to talk about the why and what of SLR movie-making (with the caveat that I’m a photographer, not a filmographer). Continue reading about dSLR movie-making after the jump →

Borrow lenses (and sports photography)

I received this e-mail:

Trust this finds you well. I am hoping I can impose upon your photography expertise with a question. My wife has been shooting our son’s high school football games (played at night under the lights) with our basic Cannon SLR rebel and using a borrowed Sigma telephoto lens that I think is an 18-200mm and there were some other specs but I can’t find my notes. Anyway – knowing that the prime purpose is to shoot football games at night where the lighting is ok at best – and wanting a good amount of zoom capability – can you recommend some options in the $500 – $750 price range for me? Also a good retailer or place to buy such an item?

There are really two questions here: what is the ideal lens to buy for night (from the stands) night sports photography, and what is the best lens to buy in a given price range. The answer to the second question may be…nothing at all.

You can read on, or read an four-year-old article on the subject here.

Continue reading about sports lenses and lens rentals after the jump →